Deadlocks stop the door from opening, even if a thief breaks the window to use the interior handle. ‘One- touch’ deadlocks are set whenever you lock the car.
Have the glazing etched with the vehicle identification number (Vin). Better still, go for a traceability scheme where the glass and other parts are marked and recorded on a secure database. Future buyers can then cross-check the car’s ID with the database.
Genuinely secure, lockable cabin storage is still rare, meaning you have to remove all valuables when you leave the car – a real nuisance if you’re only going for a quick loo break.
Becoming the norm on new cars, but check that the stereo is Pin-coded, vehicle-specific (won’t work in another car), or multi-part (display is separate from main audio unit).
Locking wheel nuts
These need to be better than the two-pin socket-secured parts some car makers supply. Go for locking wheel nuts with a laser-cut groove to make it harder for thieves to pinch your alloy wheels.
This ‘security glass’ isn’t impregnable, but it takes much more time and energy to break than standard toughened glass. The extra disturbance also increases the chances of a thief getting caught in the act.
Tracking devices can be invaluable if a car is stolen, but remember they usually need an annual subscription – you won’t have any protection if this isn’t paid.
If you have a driveway, consider a lockable bollard. If not, a wheel clamp can make life more difficult for thieves. Always lock car doors and boot, and close windows (even when paying for petrol or other quick activities). Take your keys with you.
If your car doesn’t have an electronic immobilizer, consider using a strong steering-wheel lock to help safeguard your car overnight.